Light Skinned: Are Lightening Products Safe?

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One of the most charged debates in the black community is the light skin versus dark skin dynamic. The idea that lighter skin is "better" may date back to slavery and historically, light skin in the African-American community has been synonymous with power and higher social status. For some, the desire to have lighter skin still strongly resonates within the black community -- here and abroad.

The skin lightening cosmetic industry has evolved into a multi-million dollar industry worldwide and has many detractors, both for the principle of it and for the use of the controversial ingredient hydroquinone (HQ).

"The FDA has proposed a ban on HQ because of the development of liver and kidney cancer in a certain type of mouse," says dermatologist Dr. Susan Taylor. However, "there has been absolutely no evidence of any type of cancer in humans" Dr. Taylor reassures.

In addition to Dr. Taylor, we recently spoke with Deena Singleton, Product Director for AMBI, the leading skin lightening brand for African-Americans to gain more perspective on "skin lightening."

AMBI has gained notoriety for being a skin evening/lightening line; is the company consciously trying to branch away from that?

Deena Singleton: AMBI wants to provide a range of Skincare products for women of color. Historically, we were known for our AMBI Fade Cream and specialty bars. In 2006, we launched our Even & Clear line to offer consumers a daily skincare line. This year, we launched our Soft & Even line, a body care line that offers women products to help moisturize and soften her skin every day. With these additions, AMBI has become a more comprehensive skincare brand that provides skincare solutions for women with richer skin tones to achieve even-toned, beautiful skin.

Black Skin 101

Create a skin care regimen
Say goodbye to soap and water! "It's really time for people to update their skin care regimen," advises Dr. Taylor. "You should follow a regimen that's either going to keep your skin healthy, clear, or even your skin and keep it bright and radiant."

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Cleanser
"Black skin is often sensitive and easily irritated. So cleansers that are non-irritating, that contain ingredients that prevent inflammation, that cleanse and hydrate the skin are ideal. If you have acne prone skin, I would suggest a cleanser that contains salicylic acid to prevent and treat acne."

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Discoloration
"By far the top skin concern for people of color is hyperpigmentation which includes discolorations, dark marks, and uneven skin tone. Sensitive skin and acne round out the top concerns of people of color."

Wash your face
Women don't be lazy, wash your face! "If you don't wash your face, all of that make up, dirt and oil is going to stay on your face all night long and that's not good for your pores," says Dr. Taylor.

Scarring
"A characteristic of black skin is that abnormal healing of the skin occurs frequently. When skin is injured, it may heal with one of several types of scars: normal (level with the surrounding skin), atrophic (depressed), hypertrophic (slightly raised), and keloidal (large and raised)."

Sun damage
"African American skin doesn't burn as easily but African American skin DOES burn and that's one of the greatest myths," Dr. Taylor explains. "If you get in the sun you're going to burn. African Americans do develop skin cancer, no doubt about it."

Skin diseases
"Many skin diseases are inherited such as acne, eczema and psoriasis so that hereditary predisposition cannot be altered by diet or skin regimen. However, having a good skin care regimen may help to prevent a flare or exacerbation of a particular skin disorder and it may help to keep a skin disorder under control."

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Treating razor bumps
-Stop shaving completely and grow a beard
-Permanent reduction of hair with the hair removal laser
-Shave daily with a single edge blade, with the grain (not against the grain). This prevents the hair from growing long enough to pierce the skin
-Use of glycolic acid products which help prevent in-grown hairs
-Prescription medications that are used for acne often help razor bumps.

Men vs Women
In general, male skin has more oil glands as compared to female skin and hence is often oilier. Also there are far more facial hairs and they are thicker than in women. Women's skin is much more sensitive than men's.

What are the main ingredients in AMBI products that help address issues like discoloration and hyper pigmentation in people of color?

DS: There are several key ingredients in AMBI skincare products that address dark marks and hyper pigmentation: AMBI Fade Cream contains 2% Hydroquinone, a dermatologist-recommended ingredient and the "gold standard" lightening ingredients; AMBI Even & Clear facial products contain Vitamins C & E to help even skin tone while refining and softening the skin. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that improves the elasticity of skin and protects against environmental oxidative pollutants and UV radiation. Vitamin C is a skin brightener, stimulates the production of collagen and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, and our AMBI Soft & Even body care products contain natural soy, which works to even skin tone.

There has been a lot of controversy over the use of the ingredient hydroquinone and in many countries it is banned. How can you reassure those who are skeptical about the ingredient to use the AMBI products which contain the ingredient?

DS: Hydroquinone has been known as the gold-standard in lightening ingredients for decades. Although there have been rumblings overseas about the safety of this ingredient, a 2% concentration of hydroquinone is approved by the FDA for over-the-counter distribution in the U.S. and there has never been a documented case here that was linked back to the ingredient. We do understand however that some women are sensitive to the ingredient. In spring of 2007 we introduced the AMBI Even & Clear Targeted Mark Minimizer to reduce the appearance of dark marks and visibly improve tone and texture without the use of Hydroquinone. The Even & Clear Targeted Mark Minimizer uses a Triple Action Formula that combines Vitamin A (Retinol), Vitamin C and Vitamin E to help even skin tone without altering the skin's natural tone.

Are there any side affects to using the ingredient Hydroquinone?

Dr. Taylor: Hydroquinone (HQ) is a safe and effective treatment for hyper pigmentation (dark marks and discolorations) that has been used for over 50 years. In terms of potential side effects, the majority of users have none, but it can cause redness and irritation of the skin in some people which is an allergic reaction. Hydroquinone can also leave a light-colored ring around the area of skin that has been treated but this ring will resolve after the HQ is discontinued. Finally, there is a very rare condition that may occur as a result of long term use of high concentrations of HQ which is called Exogenous Ochronosis. In this condition, there is a darkening of the skin. This condition occurs almost exclusively in Africa.

Would someone of color who doesn't have problems like hyper pigmentation and dark spots benefit from AMBI products?

Absolutely. Our Even & Clear line, which includes the Foaming Cleanser, Exfoliating Wash, Daily Moisturizer with SPF 30 and Targeted Mark Minimizer not only provides solutions for even-toned skin but also helps to clear breakouts. Our cleansing products gently cleanse skin as it helps to keep skin clear of pimples and breakouts. Our moisturizer helps to soften skin as it moisturizes; additionally, it also provides advanced sun protection, which is essential for all skin types including women of color. Our body care line, Soft and Even, provides consumers with a line of products that will soften and moisturize rough dry skin.

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